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As it is impossible to mount parogidroizolyatsiyu 3 major mistakes

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Answers to the most frequent users FORUMHOUSE questions they ask in the topics related to the installation of a vapor barrier, windbreak and diffusion membranes in the timber and frame houses

With a vapor barrier, windproof, anti-condensate films and membranes due Superdiffuzionnaya mass of myths and misconceptions. Some believe that they are indispensable. Others believe that they do not need. All this - the marketing and divorce for money. That's grandparents built the house without them, and they are still standing. Do not rush to jump to conclusions! After all, "shoals", made during the installation of steam and waterproofing are costly. In this article we will discuss the three main errors that occur during installation of steam and water-proof film, and help to avoid them.

Content:

  • Why can not close the wooden beams steamtight film
  • Proper steam wooden span between the first and second heated floor
  • "Pie" a cold attic in a country house

The first mistake - wooden beams wrapped vapor barrier

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If you examine the threads on a portal of the insulation film and the diffusion membranes, there is a paradoxical situation. The more the developer reads, the more he becomes entangled. Cause? A huge amount of conflicting information from different manufacturers and builders. The situation is aggravated, t. K. The market are dozens of materials with different specifications.

vasoo

Member FORUMHOUSE

I build a one-storey house with a cold attic. Ceiling - wooden beams cross section 100h250 mm. I want a part of the beams, about 15-20 cm, left open, as in the photo below. So they look beautiful in the interior. On beams think throw isolating film. Cover with 300 mm mineral wool insulation. But, after reading portal, he hesitated. People write that if you close a vapor barrier on top of the beam, is in contact with the film, the tree will not "breathe". This will lead to vlagonakopleniyu. Is it so? Or is it better to lay fully exposed beams drywall, then steam, and only then put mineral wool?

vasoo

By the way, here I found one picture. Say, wooden beams can wrap vapor barrier under the condition that a part remains visible in the interior. In my opinion, the film prevents the escape of water vapor from the hardwood floor. Or something I know is wrong?

Questions answered by the participant portal Dragofol, which is professionally engaged in installation of roof and the steam and waterproofing film. First, the 'pie' attic floor, he recommends vasoo:

  • Exposed wooden beams, visible in the interior.
  • Wooden flooring.
  • Vapor barrier, with sizing overlaps and wall connection.
  • Insulation of the frame.
  • Top heater - dust- and windproof material which releases water vapor. Moreover, there is no need to chase the expensive branded films. inexpensive domestic nonwovens enough to use.
  • A wooden platform on the framework for the free movement of loft and routine inspection of roof space.
In the attic, on the insulation, it is not recommended to lay a solid floor.
In the attic, on the insulation, it is not recommended to lay a solid floor.

Now the answer to the second question vasoo. "Wraps" the wooden beams can only be a vapor barrier with variable water vapor permeability, T. N. film with adaptive properties which, with increasing air humidity, water vapor passes.

This vapor barrier must only be used on the premises with normal humidity and not of bathrooms, toilets and kitchens.

Important! If the usual vapor barrier, the envelope of the beam of the film can not be, T. To. It "will lock" pairs that lead to vlagonakopleniyu and rotting wood.

The second error - a vapor barrier laid on both sides of the insulation and hardwood floor

How to paroizolirovat hardwood floor and a wooden frame house? This issue is of concern to many developers, and is a "narrow" place in many designs. Just say that we are talking about the overlap between the two residential and constantly heated floors.

Kiskovka

Participant FORUMHOUSE

We insulate the floor of the second floor in a wooden house. I'm confused where to install a vapor barrier! At some sites write that the first layer is placed between the finishing ceiling of the first floor and the second sub-floor. On the other, that of the sub-floor and on her right insulation. It turns out to be steam from both sides?

VOsipov

Member FORUMHOUSE

I also saw on the Internet a lot of schemes for installation vapor barrier in the ceiling of the first and second floor. Moreover, some manufacturers recommend to lay a vapor-proof foil top and bottom insulation. Tell me how to make a vapor barrier overlap, if the first and second floors are heated?

So you can not do!

To answer these questions, we argue logically.

  • In the frame walls and ceilings vapor barrier is installed where there is a temperature difference. T. e. room where plus, insulate from the street, where it is cold.
  • The false floor between two heated floors, there is no abrupt temperature drop. Therefore, water vapor, caught in a heater not condense.
  • Hence: mineral wool insulation, packed in a wooden overlap between the first and second heated floor rather not need to insulate structures, and for sound insulation ceiling.
  • T. e., in fact, you can do without the film, but the premises must be protected from possible contact with insulation particles in the air.
  • But do not forget that in the house, except for the residents, there are constant sources of moisture and water vapor - kitchen, bathroom and toilet.
  • Water vapor, due to the pressure difference, will seek to get out of the warm room into the cold zone - through the wall on the street, or bottom-up, on a cold attic through the ceiling. Or in the roof space, if it is a insulated attic.

So, we have the insulation, laid between the wooden beams in the ceiling of the first and second floor and water vapor from which it is necessary to protect these structures. Water vapor, if it fell into the overlap should be able to get out of it. Consequently, the "pie" should overlap to provide the opportunity. T.. For now we are talking about the overlap of the first and second floors, we offer a "pie":

  • Fine and rough finish of the ground floor ceiling.
  • Vapor barrier.
  • Insulation.
  • Vapor diffusion membrane.
  • Roughing and finishing the second floor finishing floor.
In addition to the classic work in the "pie" of overlap, the film does not give dust a heater.

In such a scheme steam freely out of the overlap, and the design will "breathe."

Important! The insulated wooden intermediate floor Do not put a vapor barrier on both sides.

The third mistake - the rejection of water- and windproof film to overlap the cold attic

Having read the article up to this point, you have already understood the basic principles paroizolirovaniya wooden structures and ceilings. We turn to the nuances. Another "stumbling block" - the right cake cold attic, for example, the second floor of a country house.

Bolt41

Member FORUMHOUSE

I end up doing cold attic ceiling. Overlapping warmed. I know that the first mounted vapor barrier and then between the beams stacked mineral wool. And you close the insulation on top? The booklet maker said that it is necessary to mount a waterproof vapor-permeable membrane. Why does she need it? Maybe it was just a cheap hydro or wind protection to spread?

alligator135

Member FORUMHOUSE

In my opinion, a heater in the cold attic does not need to close any tapes. Otherwise you disable it because of condensation. Let yourself lies and lies.

First answer the question Bolt41.

Mgolovanov

user FORUMHOUSE

The manufacturer recommends that the right to close the insulation on top of waterproofing material - membrane, which is permeable to water vapor, but does not allow moisture to get into the insulation. Remember that the membranes have their own characteristics. First of all pay attention to the water vapor permeability. It varies up or down.

Bolt41

Then the next question. Membranes are typically mounted on a pitched roof insulated against the heater. T. e. water dripping on them and does not stay on the surface. And if you put the membrane horizontally, she drops through?

Mgolovanov

If you afraid that the horizontally laid superdiffuzionnaya diaphragm leaks or miss water due to leakage of the roof, choose a material with a high water-resistant. The most simple and inexpensive vapor-permeable membranes have low water-resistant nature. Therefore, their trail obliquely, ie. A. Stagnant water through them, sooner or later seep into the ceiling.

Now back to the words alligator135, that on top of the insulation is not necessary to close the films. Whether such an approach is justified?

Sadovnik62

user FORUMHOUSE

Stone wool dusty. Therefore, the insulation must be closed on both sides by films. From the heat vapor barrier, and by the cold - a membrane with a high vapor permeability. Over the years, the insulation dusts everything stronger. Think about your health! In addition, the wind that walks in the attic, and it is necessary to ventilate the roof space, blows the heat of the mineral wool fibers. If the insulation is closed, it is teplobarer, works better than an unsealed film.

Bolt41

As a result, I received the following pie cold attic, bottom-up:

  • vapor barrier;
  • rough boards;
  • insulation;
  • moisture- wind-proof membrane.

Important! On top of the cold attic insulation cover waterproof vapor-permeable membraneWhich further protect the insulation from wind and moisture, and you from inhaling particles of stone wool.

conclusions

We talked about the basic principles of installation of vapor barrier films and membranes in insulated wooden ceilings. The basic approach - the protection of insulation from the ingress of steam and perhaps if the steam hit the floor, get him out. T. e. Do not lock the insulation in two layers of vapor barrierAnd this error is often tolerated. And do not wrap up wooden beams vapor barrier, unless it is specifically designed for this film. Another nuance - provide a tight vapor barrier. Overlaps, joints, junctions place to the walls, roof windows, heating and ventilation pipes must be glued materials manufacturers' recommended films and membranes.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them on our website! You will answer experienced users and professional builders.

Worth topic Waterproofing in the cold attic, Which tells whether it is necessary to mount the waterproofing under the roof covering.

Useful articles:

  • How not to build a loft.
  • How to build karkasnik not to get RAC (Rushen terrible karkashen).
  • The most complete guide in RuNet Installation of mansard windows  with the steps of mounting a vapor barrier film vlagovetrozaschitnoy and gutters to drain condensate.

 In the video - workshop for repair of the roof on the classical scheme and adaptive vapor barrier.

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